Monday, December 31, 2007

Sunday

Going to Yad VaShem is always a demanding experience. That it's emotionally demanding is obvious. This starkly imposing building is not a museum so much as it is a mitzvah: the fulfillment of the sacred obligation of remembering. We walked through in our family units. For me and for Liza, to be there with our daughters was deeply meaningful and sad. Standing together, all 4 of us listening to the same video tapes of survivors telling their harrowing stories, looking at the exhibits and the maps and the pictures proved to be a powerfully important component of the whole experience of being at Yad Vashem. So many of the accounts of Holocaust survivors specifically dealt with family members being taken away and killed or just never seen again. That it was sad is self evident. The affirming part was that we were here in Israel, that we live on with strength and dignity. More than ever I am convinced that Yad Vashem has it together.

All that being said, Yad Vashem was so crowded that it detracted from the overall experience of being there. People were respectful -- no inappropriate behaviors intruded. It was just literally hard just to see things, just to move. I hope they figure out how to control the crowds.

After Yad Vashem our group split into 2 buses. Group one went to see the beautiful Chagall Windows at Hadassah Hospital. Group 2 went off to Machaneh Yehudah, the Jewish outdoor market where you can buy spices, fruits, vegetables, pots and pans, and... etrog healing elixirs.

I had heard a great piece on NPR about a guy in Mqachaneh Yehudah whose sole product is etrogs and derivatives thereof. He claims that etrogs hold enormous curative powers. It can smooth wrinkles, freshen one's mood, improve one's eyesight, clear sinuses and headaches, etc. When we finally found him (after eating remarkable felafel, buying spices, halvah, figs, and fresh pomegranate juice), he decided to pick the big Jewish guy in the group: Rich B. As a 6' 5" Jew, Rich gets lots of attention in the Holy Land, let me tell you. We watched as the Etrog Man squirted various potions in his mouth, dabbed his hand with etrog cream, and sprayed his face with etrog mist. Skeptics and believers alike took great pleasure watching Rich get treated to a whole healing experience including wind chimes and etrog extract.

After finally getting back to the hotel it was time to clean up and pack up and then -- but of course! -- go eat some more. Our 'last supper' was at a classic Middle Eastern restaurant, featuring endless salads (humus, tehina, cole slaw, red cabbage, and God knows what the other dishes were called) and grilled kebabs, chicken, beef, etc. It was there that we officially said goodbye to our guides, Laura and Chen. What a contrast between these 2 remarkable, talented people.


Chen is a former member of Israel's most elite commando squad. A hard core Zionist leaning right, he suffused his raps with his love of the land itself. Sometimes he would ooze over into the politics of the land, and that wasn't always appreciated by everyone. But he was, undeniably, a mensch. He had a sparkle in his eye always and cared that we experience the best Israel had to offer.

Laura, American borne, just happens to be the sister of a temple member. That she was available for our group happened as a total fluke in that a tour she had already booked at the same time cancelled the day before i called her. And let me say how lucky we were to have her as a guide. She is ridiculously smart, insightful, and keyed into American Jewish interests. Combined with her capacious knowledge of all things and places Israel, she has a beautiful smile and a great sense of humor.

We lucked out: 2 guides who had never worked together before got along famously (even as their politics utterly diverged). One, a commando who knew how to get things done in all situations, and a mother of 6 who knew how to nurture and cajole: always with poise. We were led and pushed and pulled with exquisite care. I know I speak for all of us when I say how much more we know about Israel because of them. To Chen and Laura, todah rabbah.

Saturday, December 29, 2007

Friday morning to Havdalah

No one wants to admit it... even though we can tell, based on our laundry situation, that the trip is nearing the end. Friday the weather was, as usual, absolutely perfect. Shirt sleeves only, even in Jerusalem. We went to 3 places: a kibbutz, a dig, and an Arab village. At the kibbutz we participated in a program called Table to Table. This Israeli organization -- to which we donated our Mitzvah Day tzedakah collections -- seeks to feed hungry people in Israel, primarily by collecting the gleanings from the fields. The food is harvested by volunteers and then sent to soup kitchens and homeless shelters all over the country.

We went out, all 80+, to harvest kohlrabi. No, I had no idea what it was either. Here it is:
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Wikipedia defines it as Kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea Gongylodes Group) is a low, stout cultivar of the cabbage that will grow almost anywhere. It has been selected for its swollen, nearly spherical, Sputnik-like shape. The name comes from the German Kohl ("cabbage") plus RĂ¼be ~ Rabi ("turnip"), because the swollen stem resembles the latter. Kohlrabi has been created by artificial selection for lateral meristem growth; its origin in nature is the same as that of cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and brussels sprouts: They are all bred from, and are the same species as, the wild cabbage plant (Brassica oleracea).

Ok, so big deal on the vegetable. But we picked them for an hour. We won't win the Nobel Peace prize. But we did make a difference. And it felt really good to be doing something for Israel besides buying tchachkes. Even here for TBA it's about social justice, too.

From the fields (not the farm, O customs man), we motored on to Beit Guvrin, an archaeological dig so huge that the only way to fund it (it receives very little government support), is to shlep in tourists from all over the world and Israelis as well, to actually dig for stuff and then buy some t-shirts. Most of us find little shards of stuff, but one of our kids actually found a whole small bowl! It was so exciting that we wanted to all keep digging -- kind of like in Vegas or Foxwoods when the guy next to you gets the jackpot you figure, just one more shot.

But alas, it was time to go. The sweetest discovery for me was literally bumping into our guide from 2 years ago, Ya'ara! She is cute as ever, and has cut her hair very short. She sends love to all of the Israel crew of '05.

We then headed back to Jerusalem just in time to eat -- again. But what a treat! Lunch was at an old established village on the road to Jerusalem called Abu Ghosh. There we sat at long tables and, once again, we were treated to fabulous Middle Eastern salads and chips (french fries, habibi!), felafel, and so many items that we ate but could never define.

The fact is, Israeli food is finally great. Anyone who journeyed here 25 years ago + found pretty tasteless stuff. So much of the best fruits and veggies were exported and the beef was 2nd class Argentine import, full of fat and gristle. It is so far from that now. Thanks God.

Friday night came and we all stumbled to dinner sleepy but filled with such good feelings about the day and all that we accomplished. A week had gone by, and we were sad that the time is ticking down, but we do feel satisfied and all so connected. We had a short, beautiful Kabbalat Shabbat that drew us even closer -- and with 83 people, that isn't easy. But it happened, and the buoyant shabbat spirit lifted us to dinner and then to sweet dreams.

Shabbat in Israel? With glorious shirt sleeve weather? In Jerusalem? Lo yuman: unbelievable. Saturday after breakfast some of us walked to shul: some to Hebrew Union College (where English is spoken during the service), and others to Kol Haneshamah, a very cool Israeli Reform shul. I was with the KH group. We were honored tyo be given an aliyah. I sent up four of our kids: Hallie, Emily, Abby, and David. They recited the blessings beautifully and without any confusion. And I and their parents were so very proud.

Everybody hung out for awhile then gathered for lunch and a guest speaker, Rachel Canar. Rachel, a former TBA youth advisor in 1997-8, spoke about making aliyah and working for the Israeli Religious Action Center. She spoke about racism in Israel as well as the hegemony of the ultra-Orthodox to the detriment of the nascent Israeli Reform movement. She fired up lots of us, so be prepared to hear more on the subject.

Sunset arrived and with it, havdalah. We gathered on my porch. Yes, as a tour leader, one gets percs. In this case at the Inbal, it's a great suite with an extraordinary huge porch. And even though it was chilly, we welcomed the new week outdoors, praying, hugging, drinking Yarden cabernet and planning our final day with all 80+ of us.

Thursday, December 27, 2007

Busy Day

Ok, so here's how it all started. We began with 545am wake up call. Ouch. A quick breakfast on delicious Israeli breakfast goodies and then on the buses by 645. An hour later, we arrived at Ein Gedi Nature Preserve.

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We hiked past the ibex who was hanging in the parking lot as if he were the unofficial greeter.


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From there it was on to the waterfall.

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Because the weather was so outrageously warm and wonderful, we had a good time splashing around and basking in sunshine. After an hour or so, we marched back to the buses and moved on to Masada.
Masada is a very personal and complex place. The story of the mass suicide, the message of Masada, to live free or die, and how the mythic story has inspired Israelis and Jews from all over. But we weren't looking to debate that mythic icon. We were looking to take in an ancient site and then take our place in it, and not get absorbed by it.
We did that by setting up an opportunity. All 83 of us gathered on a small platform and then split up according to when we became bnai mitzvah. It was glorious to see so many TBA kids, age 20 and younger, not to mention a few adults, stretching across the stage. In the next line were folks who had had their bnai mitzvah. And between them we passed a Torah. Every person held it briefly, and then on to the next. Finally the youngest kids got up, 6-12 yr olds. They each put a hand on the Torah and were told that one day soon, when they stood on the bimah for their big day, they might remember this moment. Then our "bookends" arose: Joe from the class of '45, and Abby, '07. We invited any adults who had not yet celebrated a Bar Mitzvah to stand and pledge at some point to throw their hats in the ring.
It was a moving ceremony, a Beth Avodah moment on Masada that emphasized our communal and spiritual commitment to Israel and to each other.

After our time touring and life cycling on Masada, we traveled on to the Dead Sea. Lots of the group made their way into the salty stuff, smearing some mud on themselves -- and each other.

Our last call of the day was to a cute, cheesy place called eretz Beresheet. It was a journey back in time to Abraham's period. Camel rides and dinner included. Abraham appeared: wearing traditional robes and boots... It was all in good fun and the food was good, too.

Tomorrow is Shabbat. The rest will be good, but it will mark our first week is over... and that is sad.

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

From the North to Jerusalem

No pooping out allowed tonight! There’s too much to talk about, too many places and experiences. For instance, we went to a place called Kfar Kedem. It’s a funky little brain child of some guy named Menachem who dreamed about creating an attraction that would recreate the sights and smells of the second century. We milked a goat, carried a kid on our shoulders (and I don’t mean a child… I mean a kid!), made cheese, baked pita… and even wore period clothing. And as hokey as the place sounds, we had a great time, adults and kids (and I don’t mean goats…).

We also were at Tzippori, the home of the ancient synagogue with the elaborately tiled floor that included the zodiac as a central design in the sanctuary space. In addition, it’s the town where Judah the Prince lived and redacted the Mishnah.

Last night, we got off the buses on Mount Scopus to officially mark our entry into Jerusalem. We all crowded together and sang Jerusalem of Gold. Susan Glickman played a borrowed guitar (with a broken string, yet) as we looked at the Old City from a distance. It was so moving: to reach that spot together was a big spiritual accomplishment. We drank l’chayim, broke bread together, and really embraced the moment as sacred.

Today, we were in the Old City. The contrast between today and the first day 2 years ago was striking, mostly because the sun was out today. We were in shirt sleeves. No rain. No gloves.

The Wall scene was utter bedlam. 18 year old soldiers being pumped up as the defenders of Jerusalem. Beggars mumbling, imploring. Hasidim looking to wrap men in tefillin. A group of tourists from Singapore. Christian groups getting the basic info on this wall from another perspective altogether. 40 kindergarteners with little crowns on singing sweet religious tunes. Hundreds of folks coming to daven. And us. It was a little too much for some of us, who felt rushed and pushed and unmoved. For others it was a sacred moment. A real highlight for me was putting on tefillin with 3 generations of one TBA family, and then blessing the boys right in the corner of the Wall. I was blessed as a rabbi with 3 generations of congregants to be able to convey blessing.

It's good to be in Jerusalem.

Monday, December 24, 2007

Monday

It's the end of a long day (aren't they all??).  We began with amazing jeep rides through the Golan Heights.  Our drivers, macho kibbutzniks and elite soldiers, bounced us and tossed us and essentially tried to scare us to death.  And yes, that was fun.  But along with the thrills was the very serious reality of pre 1967 life.  The omnipresence of Syrian bunkers  overlooking kibbutzim was shocking; the fact that there were so many Syrian machine gunners in those bunkers, pinning down kibbutzniks for so many years was sobering.

Our next major stop was the Tel Dan Nature Reserve.  What a fantastic place for a hike, looking at the ancient ruins and watching the headwaters of the Jordan flow by.  I am too pooped to continue.  I hope to do more justice to this day tomorrow.  

Tomorrow night is Jerusalem!!!

Sunday, December 23, 2007

Sunday Tel Aviv, Haifa and the Druze

Sunday morning began with a beautiful breakfast overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. The scenery was almost matched by the copious assortment of food options: cheeses and creams of every sort, still warm breads and sweets (such a chocolate bubka!), fresh from the farm veggies, eggs, and God knows what else I’ve forgotten – though I’m sure I ate it.

After stuffing ourselves (already a theme of the trip…), we boarded our buses, kids in one bus, everyone else on the other bus. Our first stop was Rabin Square. It is odd, actually, that the memorial to the slain prime minister is so unimposing and plain. I’m not sure why; perhaps it says something about how Israel may still feel some residual shame about how a Jewish leader was gunned down by a Jew. Regardless, it was a solemn place to start the tour.

From there the buses split off. The kids went to Haifa to the Alon School, with whom Beth Avodah has had an ongoing relationship, including a video conferencing dialogue. I’m going to ask Becky Oliver to report on just how well it went and what they did. The word is that the experience was fantastic, that the connection was a strong one. More on that later.


The other busload went off to Independence Hall Museum, the very place where Ben Gurion declared in 1948, that Israel was a sovereign state. There is a lovely retelling of the story of that fateful day by a great museum employee with a dramatic flair, which we all enjoyed. We were also inspired when, after hearing an audio tape of the event which includes the rabbi present leading everyone in shehecheyanu, we all rose and sang Hatikvah. Wow. All of us had goose bumps and chills and probably a few tears, too. It was so inspiring, reminding us of how much chutzpah and strength and determination the founders of Israel evidenced not that long ago.

After admiring the Bauhaus architecture of Tel Aviv we continued on to Haifa, winding through the mountains up to an incomparable view of the port of Haifa and the gorgeous Bahai Gardens. In the cool afternoon air it finally began to dawn on us – we’re in Israel!

This point was driven home even further when we stopped in a Druze village. Who are the Druze? I’ll leave it to you to Google the word (or link to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Druze). We enjoyed their hospitality and their unique worldview and their cookies and other treats.

A couple hours later, we arrived at Kibbutz Kfar Giladi which looks and feels like a Maine summer camp. The dining room was right out of a camp mess hall, though the food was better. The rooms are rather, how should I say it, rudimentary. Each room has 2 single beds of unknown age, an adequate shower and a dorm refrigerator. Luxurious it ain’t. But, at the end of a glorious day like this, it hardly matters.

Saturday, December 22, 2007

SHABBAT in Tel Aviv

We woke up to an extraordinary morning: sun shining in a beautiful blue sky, the Mediterranean Ocean surf crashing on the rocks by the hotel. It was a 'shechecheyanu' moment. Liza and I went down to a classic Israeli breakfast of 12 kinds of cheese, 10 breads, 9 variations of yogurt, 11 salads, and so on. From there a few of the God fearing TBA tour group went to services at Beit Daniel, the only Reform temple in Tel Aviv.

Services were so interesting. In many ways they reminded me of services I would lead in Arlington, TX 12 years ago: singing the greatest hits of the Shabbat liturgy without all of the silent and mumbled liturgy that's still part of the traditional synagogue experience. The rabbi (a woman I did not know) gave a great dvar torah (I had to ramp up my Hebrew quickly...). There was also a Bat Mitzvah -- a confusing event at that. The family has roots in Israel but live in Seattle. The Bat Mitzvah is fluent in Hebrew but gave her dvar torah in English. We couldn't tell who was related to whom... But despite the confusion on the players in the life cycle event, we were warmly welcomed and acknowledged by the rabbi.

From there we who 'serviced' went on to the Yarkon River Park where, apparently, every Tel Avivnik decided to go, too. The weather is so gorgeous, who could blame them? We walked along the polluted Yarkon with everyone else and made our way to the new happening area here, Tel Aviv Port, filled with bars and cafes and restaurants -- and people.

And now this next bit of time will be a respite to catch up on a little more sleep.

I am so lucky to be here with our temple.

rebhayim

PS Becky arrived, safe and sound. Ask here anything about the Milan Airport; she knows it now like the back of her hand.

POSTING 1

Shabbat Shalom from Eretz Yisrael!

We're here! And it was all so simple and straight forward. Well, almost simple. The bus that brought over half the group to the airport arrived on time -- but got stuck on ice going out the temple's driveway. Once we were at the airport, all was well -- in fact the airport was remarkably calm and not at all crowded. But apparently there was a snafu with our very own youth educator, Becky Oliver, who didn't get the proper boarding pass in Boston. This meant ultimately that she didnt appear on the Milan Tel Aviv manifest and THAT meant that she didnt fly into T-A with us which meant that she is arriving early Sat morning... We all feel badly about Becky's snafu... and not the least of it was a Shabbat dinner at the Carlton Hotel so big, so good with so many courses as to be ridiculously fabulous!

Flying away from the snow felt really good. Flying towards Israel felt inspired. It's like I mentioned to the group. Coming to Israel feels like visiting a part of one's home one didnt know about. It might look or feel strange at first, but slowly the haimishness, the familiarity takes over. The look of the people, the signs in Hebrew, the smell of the food, it all takes on an intimate quality.

The group has been bonding well. There's lots of kids and they are already in 7th heaven. The grown ups are good, too. All in all, our first night is triumphant.

Shabbat morning is free time: some will stay in bed, some will go to Shabbat morning services at the Reform temple in TA. Others will take a walk to old Jaffa, check out cafes, etc. The weather is supposed to be beautiful, which bodes well for us all. Stay tuned. Go to tbaisrael.blogspot.com for the latest updates.

Monday, December 17, 2007

On the Way -- Almost

I don't know about you, but I am in just a bit of a, what do they call it, a tizzy, I think -- as we near this Thursday. I'm calling contacts, putting things together, thinking about packing, looking at the weather -- here and there, not to mention a late idea to get a bus to bring those who are interested to the airport.

There's a slight chance of rain when we arrive, but Shabbat promises to be sunny and cool, in the 60s.

The teachers' strike in Israel is over, which means no idle adolescents in the streets -- besides our adolescents, that is.

Well, I just wanted to officially open the blog as we prepare for an amazing trip of a lifetime.

rebhayim